The Elenydd wilderness hostels are two ex-YHA hostels in the Cambrian mountains in mid-Wales. They’re set in stunning upland locations, miles away from the trappings of modern life.
My daughter and I backpacked between them, staying one night at Ty’n Cornel hostel, one night at Dolgoch and then a final night in a hotel at Carmarthen.
Day 1
A day of travelling, first on the train to Carmarthen, then a bus to Lampeter and a final bus to Llanddewi Brefi, from where we started our walk to Ty’n Cornel hostel.
The seven mile walk was mostly along a road. Whilst I wouldn’t consider this back home, the roads in this part of Wales are incredibly quiet. We were passed by tractors and a couple of delivery vans but no other traffic. Indeed, as I was to discover, the roads are often used in preference to marked paths as these can involve head high bracken and tussocky grass.
The road led us into ever increasing wilderness. We left behind the houses of Llanddewi Brefi, passing occasional farms and hamlets. The surrounding hills grew higher, plantations of partially felled conifers replacing grazing sheep. I realised my OS map prediction of tree cover, and potential shade, was rather dated.
Despite being the most remote hostel in Wales, it is possible to drive to Ty’n Cornel although the last mile is on a rough track. However, I was glad we arrived on foot, as it’s much more in keeping with the ethos of the hostels.
At Ty’n Cornel we were welcomed by the volunteer warden with a brew. The hostel accommodates 16 guests, but we were the only ones so had a bunk room to ourselves, for just £15 each. It’s very much an old style hostel experience, with bedding to make up, meals to cook and no Wi-Fi (or even a phone signal).
As the hostels are self-catering our rucksacks were mainly full of food. Whilst I’m not a fan of backpacker style meals, I discovered they’ve come along way since the Vesta curries of the 1990s. We sat outside and enjoyed an evening meal in the sun; sadly the midges did the same!
Day 2
A short but hot and hilly walk to the next hostel, Dolgoch. I planned to take it easy as we had a whole day to cover just seven miles. I thought it would only take a couple of hours but forgot to factor in the strong sun, the hills and sweaty backs.
After a great night’s sleep I ate a leisurely breakfast whilst chatting to the warden. At 10am we headed out on the Cambrian Way, dropping down to cross a ford. I managed to pick up a tick, fortunately spotting it on my trousers before it became attached. Tick squashed, and trousers tucked into socks, we crossed the stream and headed up through a stony gully. I was glad it hadn’t rained recently as I’m sure this would have been a raging river.
A while later we arrived at Capel Soar y Mynydd, possibly the most remote chapel in Wales. It’s a simple Calvinistic Methodist chapel, originally built in the 1820s for the sheep farming community. A list of summer services was posted on the door; these are held in Welsh and are evidently well-attended. We rested inside for a while, enjoying the respite from the heat.
After leaving the chapel we were once more on the road, surrounded by partially felled woodland. We spotted many small brown birds of unknown varieties, plus jays, buzzards and the occasional red kite. The sound of chainsaws broke the silence and from time to time we’d hear a large crash as a tree fell.
Further on, we came to a bridge crossing the River Towy. I had planned to walk along the bridleway beside the river but the warden at Ty’n Cornel had warned me it was hard going due to the high bracken. Instead we took the road route on the opposite bank. After searching for a suitable lunch spot for ages we gave up and ate it whilst sitting in the road. The benefit of minimal traffic! About 10 minutes later we came across some perfect tree trunks so we had another rest as there was no rush to arrive.
We saw our hostel a long time before we arrived, as we had to walk past it to reach a bridge, and then double back. Despite our early arrival we were once more welcomed with a drink by the voluntary warden. Dolgoch is the larger of the two hostels, with 20 beds split across three rooms. Like Ty’n Cornel, it’s in a remote area and there’s no mobile reception, Wi-Fi or TV. There’s also no mains electricity, although there is solar power for the shower. Water is supplied from a borehole. It’s gloriously basic!
There were four other guests staying at the hostel, a long-distance runner and three cyclists. We all had a fantastic evening playing Uno, Dobble, card games and my new favourite, Taco, Cat, Goat, Cheese, Pizza. It’s a mouthful for sure but great fun to play in a group.
Day 3
A 10 mile walk back along the road to the nearest town, Tregaron. Although this was the hilliest and longest walk it was much more comfortable as it was cloudy and cool. We also had a lot less food to carry.
After leaving the hostel we were faced with our first big hill of the walk, but it was surprisingly easy without the sun. We continued on at a good pace, passing a remote telephone and post box. Given the lack of mobile signal in this area it would have been useful for the phone box to contain a phone; instead it was used to sell duck eggs.
We continued onwards, heading up another hill and along a moorland road used by sheep as their toilet. The smell of sheep wee stayed with us for a good mile! Rather randomly we saw a cat running along the road, miles from the nearest house. I guess it was an escapee or feral cat but it was strange to spot it in such a remote area.
The long distance runner from the hostel passed us as we started to near Tregaron. Traffic increased too, with touring motorbikes and the odd holidaymaker driving past. We noticed heather on the hills starting to turn purple. Open moorland and forest became fields. Fences attempted to hold back the bracken.
We’d only been away a couple of days but it was weird walking into Tregaron. The sound of children playing, dogs barking and cars everywhere, the opposite of our recent experience.
Yet some aspects of society are hard to resist. The bakery, perfectly placed, enticed us in with sour dough toasties and cappuccino. We found the long distance runner here too and we whiled away an hour whilst waiting for our respective buses. Although I’d loved our break from modernity I didn’t envy his evening plans – a bivvy in the rain, somewhere up a hill in central Wales.
Instead our plans involved a couple of buses, a hotel in Carmarthen, dinner and breakfast made by someone else and a cancelled train home (thanks GWR). Actually, perhaps that bivvy did sound fun!
Challenge complete!
Backpack the Elenydd hostels – complete August 2024. Pop over to see the rest of my 60 things to do before I’m 60 list.